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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:35 am 
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FG Cutter

Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:03 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Johnston, IA
My first model was the Piper Cub and of course there were many things I didn't like about it so I decided to use it as a test bed for different edge coloring mediums and techniques and also for paper sanding.

I decided last week I prefer to use craft acrylics for my coloring over watercolors because I feel I have a so much more control over their opacity (also because I can use white). In short, I made a yellow wash and just quickly brushed over the ENTIRE aircraft and it looks amazing! It really enriched the yellow color much more so than just using a fixative alone which simply brightens the printed color and makes it look a tad richer.

On this model, I did not spray a fixative and it still looks great with no bleeding or ink smearing. I washed right over the black lettering and logos with no problem. Obviously doing this full model wash also took care of all my edges very quickly and effectively but you can only really use it on a model like the Cub or similar that is a solid color with darker marking. It would ruin a model that has white in it. Hard to explain, but I'm sure you all know exactly what I'm saying. Does anyone else use this technique?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:20 pm 
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FG Cutter

Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:03 pm
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Location: Johnston, IA
Here's a good example. You can see on the pedal car the difference between bare ink on the louvers (and also a bit I missed in the front) compared to the bright, rich wash of the rest of the model. On the Cub, the whole plane was done so there is nothing to contrast, but trust me, it's a huge difference!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:09 am 
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FG Cutter

Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:03 pm
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Location: Johnston, IA
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Now I'm outta control. :D This is just going so well and I'm so happy with it. On this particular model I had some glue stains and also some runs from the previous edge coloring where I got my paint too thin. Doing a wash evened all that right out and also made the red REALLY pop. I've also discovered that you really don't even have to be close when trying to match paint colors. Just make a VERY rough guess and go to town, it blends itself beautifully with the printed ink. I wish my crappy picture did this justice.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:53 pm 
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FG Origami Master
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:45 pm
Posts: 343
Location: Red Bluff, CA
Good tip, I'll keep it in mind.

Beard

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 4:09 pm 
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Paper Model Overlord
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The term "fixative alone" was use and I don't understand what you are saying at this point. As in I should be using a fixative? Sorry to a bit confused or just plain stupid at this point. wc


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 4:44 pm 
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FG Cutter

Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:03 pm
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Location: Johnston, IA
Wad_Cutter, from everything I've gathered between a couple of my posts and the PM's I've sent, you just want a technique to make your colors "pop" as you say correct?

I think I'm causing you grief by the way I'm trying to explain how I do some things. Maybe I don't explain very well and also don't forget that I'm still a newbie at this but I suggest, for now, that you don't worry about using a "fixative" of any kind. Just use this color wash techique with heavily watered down watercolors or acrylic paints to achieve the color and contrast you desire.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:55 pm 
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Paper Model Overlord
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Sorry to be a pain. I just wanted to make sure I was on the same page as you. As for color popping yes I was hope to fined a way to do this but when you said air brush that just about killed that idea. No worries. I use Prismacolor products for just about every thing in the way of adding color to where a model needs a bit of help. The water color pencil's, paint stick and pens. I'm very happy with this. But if at any time any one has a better way I want to learn. Thank you for your help/ wc


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:23 am 
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FG Cutter

Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:03 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Johnston, IA
Ok, I see the confusion. You are just confusing two different processes and subject matters. Forget everything I've ever said about "Fixatives" and "Future" :D

You only need to color wash with very thinned paint of whatever you choose and you DO NOT need an airbrush at all for that. Whatever your favorite brush is will work wonderfully.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 12:53 pm 
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FG Origami Master
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:45 pm
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Location: Red Bluff, CA
I wonder if the "Future" could be sprayed on with an atomizer bottle?

Beard

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:00 pm 
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FG Cutter

Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:03 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Johnston, IA
I have tried that with a few plastic models but I'd forgotten about it. On plastic you can just let it pool and run, even dip whole car bodies and it's especially useful for clear plastic canopies and windshields. You simply tip it up and let it run itself off (it self levels) and touch and runs with the edge of a paper towel to absorb them.

On paper, a spray bottle still will not work because it can't atomize the mist fine enough to prevent "globbing" If you happen to have a super fine atomizing nozzle like maybe would be found on a perfume bottle etc, that may work though. Bottom line, it never hurts to experiment!!!!!!


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