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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:29 am 
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Paper Model CINC
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 2:04 pm
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Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire, England
I'm a newcomer to card modelling, and would like to know what everyone else applies to the edges of the card/paper when it's been cut or folded so as to hide the white lines that show up afterwards?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:18 am 
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Botbuster Master
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Location: HARTSHORNE, OKLA.
i use magic markers and water color pencils......

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 5:06 pm 
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Supreme Paper Commander
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Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 2:15 pm
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
ANything I have handy.

Magic markers, non-"magic" felt markers, pencil crayons, pencils with various leads; heck I've even raided my kids craft drawer for Real crayons! I use pretty much anything I can find that looks to have the right colour match.

The one thing I havent tried is paint.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:54 am 
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Paper Model CINC
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Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire, England
Don't you find that the ink 'bleeds' with markers pens, magic or otherwise?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:13 am 
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FG Scorer

Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 11:44 am
Posts: 140
Location: Houston
I use a fine point "Sharpie" for black. Put the part color side down and use the card edge as a guide to trace around the part. By turning it color side down if you mess up the marker will only show on the inside. I also have a lot of colored art pencils from Walmart for touchups and colored edges...


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:19 am 
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Supreme Paper Commander
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Bleeding can be a problem. I will use black on the edges if the models colours are dark, but generally don't use it all that much. Lighter colours don't bleed as badly (or dont show up as much...which is not quite the same thing). Black seems to be the worst for bleeding.

I also try to keep my touch "light". Just a quick stroke and no going over and over the same spot.

Having said that, I"m using pencil crayons right now on the model I'm working on. My sharpie collection didnt have the colours I needed.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 6:27 pm 
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FG Origami Master

Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 3:48 pm
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Location: liberty lake, wa
Everything Tim said. I am moving over to watercolor markers, you can find em cheap, and I moisten my finger and run along the edge lightly after coloring to even it out. Seems to work well and less visable. My usual error is to color the edge too dark, I'm working on that


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 Post subject: hiding the edge
PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 11:20 pm 
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FG Folder

Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:45 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Covington, Wa.
I use acrylic craft paint called apple barrel and a couple other brand names that slip my mind. It comes in flat, or gloss and even metallics like silver, aluminum (mix in a little black and you've got gun metal), copper, brass, gold and can be purchased @ walmart, michael's or most any craft store @ about .50 cents each. A bottle last along time. I've got some colors that are 8 years old & still work fine.
It can be thinned with water & I think alcohol, doesn't bleed, won't soggy-up small - brushed areas, flows really well with a brush, and can even be airbrushed (which if you are doing the entire model, spray it with rattle-can primer first & it won't soggy-up the cardstock).
It has a lot of names for each color like barnwood, flannel grey, harvest orange etc., but you can look at the color and visually match - or for that matter, mix 'em, ie; Brown + Green = OD green or OD brown, just depends on which paint you mix in the most. Hope this helps.

Greg


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 4:05 pm 
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FG 26# stock
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assortment of colored sharpies should do the trick :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: hiding the edge
PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 4:13 pm 
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FG 26# stock
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loadmat wrote:
I use acrylic craft paint called apple barrel and a couple other brand names that slip my mind. It comes in flat, or gloss and even metallics like silver, aluminum (mix in a little black and you've got gun metal), copper, brass, gold and can be purchased @ walmart, michael's or most any craft store @ about .50 cents each. A bottle last along time. I've got some colors that are 8 years old & still work fine.
It can be thinned with water & I think alcohol, doesn't bleed, won't soggy-up small - brushed areas, flows really well with a brush, and can even be airbrushed (which if you are doing the entire model, spray it with rattle-can primer first & it won't soggy-up the cardstock).
It has a lot of names for each color like barnwood, flannel grey, harvest orange etc., but you can look at the color and visually match - or for that matter, mix 'em, ie; Brown + Green = OD green or OD brown, just depends on which paint you mix in the most. Hope this helps.

Greg

Are you thinking of folk art paints? also from Plaid I use the Apple Barrel and Folk art paints on My scratch built foam air planes they work really good and inexpensive.
I was thinking paints would make card stock puff up
a good thing to do with card stock to make it nice and rigid is to lightly spray the model with aresol hair spray with a few coats this will also water proof the ink and paper to a slight extent.

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