Fiddlers Green

Howzit

I don't know if this has been brought up before but with respect to recolouring a model what is the best approach? I been thinking that for a first time approach, maybe I should build a BW version first, mark out the recoloured areas, then cut up the model along the original section lines and then copy the changes into photoshop. Sounds roundabout, but I'm not sure. What do the experts out there reckon (Guido, Rob, Jim, John, FG)?

Niki

That's how I do my panel lines and such. After I create the parts, I carefully pencil in the main panel lines, Flight controls and such. Then I cut and scann the parts. Now for the disclaimer: when you assemble the model, the paper distorts a bit, so there will be slight alignment problems when you overlay your scan onto your previous work. The second build will show the errors, and you can usually correct them with a ruler and dividers. the third build should be just about on target.

When I add markings, I use the panel lines and the centerlines as a reference. I draw a T Square of appropriate size and move it around the file to keep partial insignias perpendicular to the tangent of the segment's curve.

With a bit of practice--this works pretty well. the nose insignia on the Hunter covers four segments, and I got it right, using that method, first time out. Ditto the angle of attack lines on the Fury's nose.

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-Rob-

Currently working on: see avatar

I find Adobe Photo Shop to be a pretty good program for recoloring. I have done 3 variantions on the Cessna 172 and one on the C-47 to look like the plane at a local air craft museum. If I could just get objects to spilt up to go on multiple fuselage sections I would be much more apt to recolor.

When I'm doing panel lines and markings, I like to avoid splitting them up. If a marking has enough room, I'll shift it a little so it fits on 1 piece, instead of having to make sure everything lines up, and worrying about somebody not being careful enough to line everything up when they build it. It's not accurate, but makes for a better looking model over all. Take for instance the R-4, which we are redrawing and will re-release this week. After enlarging it and splitting the fuselage, U.S. stars & bars would fall right on a part seam if kept accurate. So, I scooted it forward a bit to fit all on one part. It looks better, and only a dedicated rivet counter will care.

I disagreee with that (lazy) approach. I want my models to lookas authentic as possible. The neophyte modeler has the skills to align panel lines, as well as insignia. The designer has to put forth more effort to correctly align things, especially when you're dealing with different conical sections, but the end product is worth it. You end up with a better looking and more realistic model. You might be surprised the number of people who build these things that are intimately knowledgeable about them. I could see adjusting a vertical seam if was a small fraction of an inch from a section break, but one third of a national insignia is way too much IMHO. When I design, I try to take those factors into account, and align my section breaks with seams on the prototype. However, in many cases, in order to get a smooth curve, the placement of a section break is dictated by the flow of the shape, rather than the markings. For example, it didn't bother me at all when designing my Fury--to spend several days aligning the angle of attack indicator stripes on the nose. They passed through three radically different conical shapes, at different angles, yet, when the model is built, they all align smoothly. The nose insignia on the RAF Hunter passsed through four sections, again--the alignment is good, and to date there have been no complaints. To me it's about quality, rather than ease of design. I'm sure that most modelers would rather have a realistic representation of the prototype, rather than a characature of the same. I urge anyone doing recolors, to take the time to learn the basic techniques involved in applying lettering and markings, in order to get the most realistic appearance. Remember, you're putting your name on the work, and it should reflect your best efforts. I stand ready to assist anyone who has a sincere desire to do recolors,with technical advice, and some of my "lessons learned".

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-Rob-

Currently working on: see avatar

ohhhhhh my my my...all this tech talk......its ruff on us less gifted..
but I'll grin and bear it.......

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Laterz
Possm_23
Never say anything you wouldnt think out loud!
Take your time leavin.....but hurry back!!!!
Every tub has to sit on its own bottom!!!!

I have to think that the hobby is large enough that there will be those of us that will be so darned happy that the results at least resemble the intent of the designer, that a slightly misplaced insignia is probably not going to be noticed.

However, coming from a hobby (flight simulator modelling) where if so much as a pixel is found to out of place, the painter/modeller gets crucified, I can understand the desire for precision and accuracy.

Right now, I'm firmly in the first group ....

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Felix/FFDS

Is there any particular program you guys use to split image layers apart and put onto multiple sections? I have a nose art image that I need to get on two pieces. Currently, I have it as another file and glue it on when the nose seciton is completed.

Howzit

I agree, having correct insignia placement even though it's a bastard to split over two sections is far nicer with respect to realism. I know paper models are only representations of the real thing but still, accuracy in design is the hallmark of a great designer (no offence to Aaron). The upcoming S-55 is a case in point, I did the red and white coastguard repaint, the black divider line between the red and white runs across 3 separate pieces, I must've spent the better part of 2 days aligning it. I could've just shifted the line slightly so it had a less troublesome layout but that is not the way it is on the actual aircraft. I reckon if you're spending so much time designing a good looking model, spend a few more hours/days just tweaking the little things to turn it into a great looking model.

Niki

Willygoat--email me for some quick and dirty help with your problem..I use Photoshop and do that sort of thing all the time.

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-Rob-

Currently working on: see avatar

Any of you guys know where I could find an image or file with the stars ribbon from SAC? I have a couple of aircraft that I am starting to do and need the ribbon.

I'd contact the SAC museum curator there in Belleview. I'm betting that, once you've explained what you're looking for, they'll let you tiptoe through some of the stuff not on display.

Another trick you might wish to try is to contact the 55th Wing Public Affairs office there at Offutt (call the base operator and ask for the number), and they might help you with getting in touch with the wing historian's office. The HO offices normally have volumes and volumes of data, which would include historical graphics not in circulation anymore.

Who knows? They may want to put some models on display, or even sell some FG stuff....

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Edward Merica
AKA "The Sarge"

Thanks airforce. I never thoguht of asking Offut. it's only 5 miles from where I live. Plus, I work part time at the Strategic Air And Space Museum. So many resources I forgot about.

My pleasure. Once you get your hands on some of that stuff, I suspect that many of our residents here may come asking for you to share!

I know I'd love to add the blue sash and starfield to the B-52 model, and I'd bet I'm not the only one....

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Edward Merica
AKA "The Sarge"

Howzit

Personalising and enhancing certain models is something I like to do. More resources available to us modelers/designer/repainters would be awesome.

Niki