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 Post subject: Sopwith Tabloid
PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:07 pm 
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FG Tissue Paper

Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:48 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Spokane, WA
The engine is supposed to be mounted to the bulkhead, yet I can't see exactly where to mount the engine tab. The engine cover obscures most of this area anyway, so is the engine meant to be visible at all or is it optional? I also couldn't figure out if the line marks on the upper portion of the fuselage were supposed to be individually creased - doing this would send several creases toward the rear of the cockpit. :?

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 Post subject: Re: Sopwith Tabloid
PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:21 pm 
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Paper Model Overlord
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 528
Location: Alameda CA
Kirchst31n wrote:
... is the engine meant to be visible at all or is it optional?


The engine is fully enclosed, with only a small bit visible through the bottom cutout, so leaving the engine out entirely would not affect the model's appearance to any but the most extreme and persnickety modelers, none of which inhabit this forum (or at least admit it).


Kirchst31n wrote:
... I also couldn't figure out if the line marks on the upper portion of the fuselage were supposed to be individually creased - doing this would send several creases toward the rear of the cockpit. :?


Yes, they should be scored and creased, every one, but stop right at the coaming cover edge (the blue part) - they represent the stringers (or longerons) beneath the taut fabric covering. The coaming cover is usually wood or aluminum, so forms a smooth curve.

Incidentally, to best score longeron lines, poke pin holes in clear space beyond the ends of the lines, then flip the paper & score the backside, using the pinholes to line up the straightedge. Hold the card up against a window & mark with pencil on the backside the true ends of the lines, so as not to carry the score into an area that shouldn't be scored.

Hope this helps - be sure to post pictures of the completed Tabloid! And don't be shy - there are pictures in this forum of models that look like wadded up paper balls - well, those might have been intentional, but every creation is worthy, and no effort goes unappreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Re: Sopwith Tabloid
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:48 am 
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FG Tissue Paper

Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:48 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Spokane, WA
Thanks for the tips! I had to start this model over again as the fuselage was already glued together. It will be some time before the pictures are posted. I look forward to completing it. :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 12:15 pm 
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Paper Model CINC
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Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire, England
And we look forward to seeing it :D.

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 Post subject: Scoring Stringers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:44 pm 
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FG Tissue Paper

Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:48 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Spokane, WA
In reference to scoring the backside, will the longeron be running along the printed lines or beneath them? I see small interruptions in the printed lines, and I'm guessing this is where to put the thread through and bring it back up. In other words, does the thread need to look "stitched" or is it one straight line pulled taut from one end to the other?

P.S. The Sopwith Tabloid turned out to have more rigging involved than I expected. Since I happened to get the Fokker Dr. I collection, I may try one of these first before I become more familiar with rigging.

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 Post subject: Re: Scoring Stringers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 1:15 pm
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Kirchst31n wrote:
In reference to scoring the backside, will the longeron be running along the printed lines or beneath them? I see small interruptions in the printed lines, and I'm guessing this is where to put the thread through and bring it back up. In other words, does the thread need to look "stitched" or is it one straight line pulled taut from one end to the other?


Longerons are never stitched; they are strips of spruce or pine about 3/8" thick and 3/4" deep set into notches in the formers. Their edges are chamfered to prevent fraying the fabric covering, and reinforcing fabric tape is glued on the fabric along the longerons. The taper of most fuselages keeps the fabric taut against the longerons, so no stitching is required. The interruptions in the printed lines are just artifacts of Chip's "arty" look that he likes for the models.

Stitching IS required to hold the fabric tight against the ribs of wings; such stitching results in tiny bumps beneath the reinforcing tape, a detail usually too tiny to try to reproduce on models smaller than about 1/12 scale (at Fiddlers Green most usual scale of 1/60th, rib stitching is invisible).

Anyway, a Dr1 is a quick way to get a multi-wing model built without having to hassle with rigging - best of luck!


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 Post subject: Thanks!
PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:56 pm 
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FG Tissue Paper

Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:48 pm
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Location: Spokane, WA
Thank you, that was very helpful. I can now put that information to use in the near future. One plane or another, the rigging is sure to be accomplished. :)

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