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 Post subject: Welcome to New England
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 9:21 pm 
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FG Origami Master

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Location: Las Vegas, NV
Hi All,

As I worked my way through the Buildings Folder I made a discovery. Good old Chip was a busy guy. Not only did he give us several different periods and types of buildings to tinker around with, he even came up with his own little townships. The Western Town has its' own layout and so does the New England Village. Since I am wanting to build up buildings to help populate an N Scale Rail Road layout, seeing how he has these things laid out in his world does help. I have taken a few shots of how he has it done and decided to just start at the top and work my way down the list as it were. Here is the grand plan for the New England Village as he had it laid out in 15 pages.

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Zeroing in on the first place that interested me, the little Boot Shop or School House, it took a little detective work to figure out just where it was in the village. I finally spotted it with the aid of the distinctive flower plot that is growing in between the two doors. It sits next to the Ice House up in the corner there.

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This is the basic plan that you have to work with. In addition to the main building you also get an add-on shed to the side if you want to add it. It isn't necessary, there are a pair of windows on the side of the building there if you chose not to use it. But since he did include it in the plans, I figure, why not, go for the gusto. It does have a number of additional features like extra doors, some extra battens that you can add to the corners of the building for a little more depth as well as turned down edges on the roof panels to make them look a little more 3 dimensional. The roof also sports an additional set of center boards across the peak. The chimney is open at the top so you can either cobble up your own top to it or blacken out the interior or do what I am going to do, you will have to follow along to see what that is.;)

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This is what I have cut out to start with. As I usually have done in the past, I make a couple of extra copies to furnish extra parts to add more depth and since I am going to use the shed that is built onto the side, I will also need some corner boards for that and an extra door as it has one on the backside. The little shed can also be used if you would like to expand on other buildings that there are in the folder.

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Now if anyone has any ideas of just copying the photos here, bear in mind that these are copyrighted and I have also taken the photos on a slant and with a slight curve so you would have a heck of a time using them as they are. Not to mention, the colors are slightly off. Go on, don't be cheap, go ahead and spring for them, they just aren't that expensive.;) :lol:

Another little part of this feature is going to be the landscaping that is just about necessary if you want to do a nice job on the little village. One of the things that jumped right out at me was the number of bushes, trees and other vegetation that is all over the place. While you could just go out and buy ready made stuff to fill in the spaces, I like making my own stuff up using the stuff that you can buy in hobby shops and model railroad outlets and online to make up my own. It is a little more cost effective that way (ie. Cheap!) and it is fun to create your own stuff. There are also a couple of other reasons that I will point out a little later.

To start out with lets take your basic tree. This is stuff that I learned from Model Rail Road Scenery manuals long ago and I have used it to make up stuff for military type dioramas in the past. Most of the inexpemsive trees you can buy ready made are either plastic trunks or cast metal ones that end in a rounded bottom base that have a batch of some sort of greenery glued on. To come up with an armature to start with I use some plain old copper wire. If you have some old speaker cable or extension cord laying about that is no longer useable for those purposes, you could also use that. The copper wire I have here is from Radio Shack and it comes in a package of 3 reels of different sizes. I just clip off a length, twist it into a rough tree shape and bend out parts of the individual wires to make branches. While twisting it together would do in a pinch, I like to solder the wires together at the trunk to anchor them for what is to follow. Using some Squadron Putty, I build up the trunk and branches first. Once these have hardened up, I add more to give it more shape and a little character. The last thing I put on is the flat base so it is more or less free standing. You could also add a longer length of wire that sticks out at the bottom to anchor them into holes in the base of your scene if you want. So this is the starting point.

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Once you have a shape that you like and have it formed so the trunk is larger at the bottom than it is at the juncture of the limbs, a natural tree shape more or less, you can call it good. I like to take a layer of plain old White Glue and go over the whole thing to add a little strength to the putty and even in a pinch add some texture to the bark. After that a paint job is required, any shade of brown, rust, or tan can be used and layered on for effect. You want to paint it first as once you cover it up with the leaves, it is sorta hard to paint any of the places that may show through the leaf cover. The next step involves some of the Clump Foliage material that is in model shops, rail road shops, and other places for foliage. It is basically made from styrofoam type material that is shredded and dyed in various colors. You can also go with some typing paper run through the printer in green or other colors for different effects and different types of trees. An ordinary paper punch can knock out a whole lot of leaves in a short time. While labor intensive, it can save you some money to spend on some more of Chips' models. ;)

Adding the foliage is easy enough to do with an application of white glue to the tree limbs and adding the foliage of your choice. In my case I tore up some of the coarse Clump foliage into smaller bits in two shades of green. Most trees are not monochromatic, so vary the colors you use a little for that effect. Don't try to get it all on in one sitting, mostly you will wind up with chunks of stuff falling off due to the weight of it and the glue not drying that fast. Take it a little at a time and add more once the first batch had dried in place. Looking at real trees, there are bare spaces where you can see day light through, openings where you see a bit of the trunk and branches, be a little creative when you are putting the leaves on. Admittedly this is more labor intensive than plunking down some bucks but then a set of 3 or 4 trees will run you usually $10 or more. A bag of foliage or two might just cost that much but you will have enough material to make a hundred or more trees, bushes and other ground cover.

Once you are happy with your leaves and shape, let it all dry until it good and solid. I took some Clear Flat Spray can enamel and went over the whole top of the tree a couple of times to seal it all together. This helps to keep anything from coming loose as you handle it to postion it in your scene and keeps it that way for a long time. I have some in dioramas that I built years ago that look just as good now as they did when I first planted them. After all my tinkering about, this is what I wound up with for my first tree.

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And here it is with some of its' store bought bretheren. Spot any differences? Yeah, the trunks are straight as a string, they all share a common shape and while enough of them in a group may sorta look like it, they are a far cry from a batch of home brewed custom trees that you come up with on your own. Also the colors are an either or sort of thing, no variation. If you want to buy some that have the variations, be prepared to spring for it, it will cost a lot more than my wire, putty and ground cover concoctions.

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:08 pm 
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Holy moly that's amazing Jay!!! I can't wait to see this village fold. (Unfold just seemed inappropriate ) :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 3:37 am 
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cool beans....you've been a busy feller.....keep us posted please..... :D :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:02 am 
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FG Origami Master

Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 6:20 pm
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
Thanks Guys,

I have always been interested in creating scenes to place my models in, that Chip has designed an entire village or three that you can build from the models in the folders is wa-ay cool. After years of making up military stuff, some civilian type scenery is a welcome change. While I may not exactly follow his plan, it should be interesting to see where this all goes.

In between doing my chores, I will be working on seeing what I can do to detail the little Boot Shop some more today and will post my progress at the end of the day.

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Jay Massey
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:16 pm 
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FG Origami Master
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Location: Hopewell Junction, NY
Looking good Jay. The first couple of card models I ever did were buildings - simple castles - Schreiber I think they were. Looking at the in process photos of your trees reminds me of my other hobby - military miniatures. I have sculpted a number of my own using an armature of wire like yours. The sculpting/modeling medium of choice for for military miniaturists around the world is epoxy putty. Most use a softer, slower cure epoxy with a longer working time, but to make a tree I'm sure you could get away with plain old plumber seal available in any hardware store. It's a two-part clay like putty. The mix of hardener to resin is usually 50/50, but you could cut back on the hardener to increase the working time. To see what's possible with just wire and epoxy putty, here's few older ceations by one of the masters of the art form - Bill Horan. Bear in mind, these little guys are only a hair over 2 inches tall. http://www.soldiershop.com/masterpage/horan.htm

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Currently working on: 1/72 FG Wildcat
Recently completed: 1/72 FG Crosby CR-4


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:45 pm 
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FG Origami Master

Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 6:20 pm
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
Hi All,

I got this done yesterday but was too tired to post the pictures to Photobucket and then make the post so here it is today. I started construction of the Boot Shop by building up the shed part. Since I wanted to make the shed look like part of the shop I used an extra pair of the edge boards trimmed down to add to the two exposed corners. I also wanted to make the door look a little more 3 dimensional than what it would look like just printed on the side of the wall. While you do get an extra pair of doors for the front and it is suggested to cut them out and glue them over the printed ones for that effect, I wanted to carry it a bit further. I had to use an extra print out of the parts anyway because the door for the shed is shorter than the doors on the front. A third copy gave me another one to trim out. I carefully cut the panels out of the third door so I would have three layers of door. So this is where I could start building the shed.

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The main part of the shed got folded using a pair of flat jawed mini pliers to keep everything nice and straight. Once they were all folded and creased I was able to use a toothpick to apply a bead of glue to the flap and join the walls together. I then glued up the two extra parts for the door and the two edge board sets that were also folded over with the minipliers. The roof panel got the same folding treatment and with a line of glue applied with the toothpick to the flaps on the tops of the walls, the roof got laid down, much easier than having to do a real one, let me tell you! ;)

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The main part of the boot shop was more or less assembled in the same manner. I used two more sets of the doors to make up a cut out frame to add to the applied doors in the front. I also used an extra set of windows all around that were cut out from my left over print outs to help them look better. The edge boards were applied then the roof, if you don't do it this way you wind up having to snake the tops of the edge boards under the roof edges. With the roof applied, it was time to work on the chimney. As it does not have a top piece and would be open, you could just color it black and call it good. I decided to use an extra printout of the chimney to line the original. I also added another layer of the same 110 pound card the kit was printed on so that it would look thicker. Once I had the parts assembled I used a dark gray marker pen to add some soot around the edges. Now it was time to do a little planning.

I used some shredded stryofoam dyed in two colors of green that I used to make the tree foliage to apply to the base cut out first rather than rely on the printed bushes that were on the layout. I also used some of the dark green colored shredded styrofoam to make the base for the planter in the front between the two doors. At this point I was trying to decide where I wanted to place my already made up tree.

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I finally decided that the side yard would look better to sort of oppose the height of the chimney. I glued the base of the tree to the base layout first. While that was drying I used a brush and applied white glue all over the base and then used an old salt shaker to spread out some fine cut green styrofoam landscaping material for grass to make a nice lawn. Once this was all applied, I used a mister spray bottle filled with diluted white glue to go over all the plantings to anchor them to the layout so that it wouldn't be shedding. This is all model train landscaping methods that have been used for years and they do make the little Boot Shop look more like it is in a natural environment. As a final touch, I used a little late fall foliage chopped up fine to make some flowers for the planter in the front as well as some yellow foliage ground up to offset that and make it look a little less monochromatic. So here is my little Boot Shop completed with landscaping.

Image

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:01 pm 
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FG Origami Master

Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 6:20 pm
Posts: 177
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Hi Don,

You snuck in on me while I was pontificating on my latest. :lol:

Yes, I have seen Bill Horans' work before, the guy is amazing. Most of my stuff is using (I know that I will hear from possm on this word) styrene kit parts and models to add some interest to the landscaping I have done in the past. I grubbed around in my lockers and found most of my old stuff that I used to use. While those were all used to make up bombed out rubble and parts of buildings, the methods are pretty much the same. Here are a couple of my old ones that I still have laying about.

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But finding my way into here is giving me an opportunity to tinker around with civilian type scenes which call for a lot less ruble and more pastoral settings. Getting on to the tree making that I do, I use the wire armature and some Squadron Putty to come up with the basic shape.

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I just insert the armature into the tube like so.

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And as I pull it out, I give the tube a little squeeze at the same time to get the putty to cover the wire.

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Moistening your finger tips to keep the putty from sticking to them and pulling away from the wire lets you shape it, roll it and come up with a tree like shape. Once you have it where you want to go, you just hang it out to dry before going on with applying the covering for the limbs.

Image

I will have another installment in this way of doing things in my next builidng post so everyone can see how it is done.

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Jay Massey
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:07 am 
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cool beans....thats a neat trick....but really????styrene :roll: :roll: :roll:

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Never say anything you wouldnt think out loud!
Take your time leavin.....but hurry back!!!!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:10 pm 
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FG Origami Master

Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 6:20 pm
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Hehehehe, somehow I knew the "S" word would get you wound up some there possm. :lol:

I am working over the Equipment Barn now so stay tuned for some updates on it. Chip did an excellent job on the model giving us lots to work with on this one.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:54 am 
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FG Origami Master
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That's a nice little vignette you put together there, Jay. Thanks for sharing. NOW I see how you're doing those tree trunks. Neat trick. I assumed you were spreading the putty over the armature, one coat at a time until you got the required thickness. They look convincing when they are done, and will add a nice touch to your village.

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Don

Currently working on: 1/72 FG Wildcat
Recently completed: 1/72 FG Crosby CR-4


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:23 pm 
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FG Origami Master

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Thanks Don,

I am far too impatient to try smearing putty layer at a time, I am a blob sort of modeler. ;) :lol:

I have discovered that doing it this way allows you to come up with individually shaped tree trunks that are different enough so that it doesn't look like the mass of plastic shapes or even the cast metal ones you can buy. While it may take a little longer to make enough to cover a larger area for these little scenes, one or two or even three at a time can go a long way to covering a larger area when they eventually get combined into a layout like I have in mind.

Back to work on the Equipment Barn........ :)

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Jay Massey
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:27 am 
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Very nice work jay! That's impressive!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:54 am 
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Amazing stuff Jay - all of it! :D

Yay, I'm now a Paper Model CINC!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 7:00 am 
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FG Origami Master

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Thanks Guys,

Congratulations on your recent promotion CD! ;)

I am having wa-ay too much fun with these little buildings as a way to broaden my learning curve on how to make better paper models. With each one you can experiment with how things look and different ways to get the look that you want or think they should have.

I started my next project, the Equipment Barn, and thought I would give a little background. This one is actually existing still, I can understand how it found its' way into the buildings folder, it was converted to a house in its' later life and our esteemed founder and fearless leader Chip grew up there. Pretty good reason to include it I figure.

Like most of the buildings included in the folder, it comes in various sizes depending on what you would like to do with it. I chose the "N Scale" version since I am planning on adding it to the others in this set as part of a rail road layout eventually.

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As you can see, it comes with a number of additional parts as well as the good old method of popping out extra copies to make even more parts to accessorize and custom out your build. The first thing I made up was the Silo that comes with it. A fairly straight forward procedure. To form the main part of the structure after cutting it out, I laid it down on an old mouse pad and used a hobby knife handle to roll it on. By rolling the flat paper over and over a few times the paper naturally curves up on the ends. Once the curve got started I formed it further by rolling it up into a cylinder until it would stay in its approximate shape on its own. Using a toothpick to apply the glue to the glue tab and using the same hobby knife handle and mouse pad to seal the tab in place once I had it positioned made short work of that part. The conical roof was cut out and then formed using the mouse pad again. For a forming tool, I used a drill bit and worked around the outer edge keeping the tip of the bit oriented to the peak of the roof. It soon curved up and made it easy to glue into shape and then attach to the top of the silo. The small dormer window/ loading chute was folded up and then glued in place to complete the basic building steps for this one.

I cut out the rest of the parts for the basic kit to see what I had to work with as is my habit. I also printed up a couple of extra sheets so I could do even more. It is also a good idea in case something that you try requires a redo. This is the basic kit as it is laid out.

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Part of the neatness of this particular kit is the number of extra parts included as well as instructions on how to make it look more 3 dimensional right there on the parts sheet. The little cupola that goes on the roof of the barn is one of the first things that you get to alter in this manner. If you are in a hurry or just want to build it up straightaway, you can just cut it out and fold it up to glue it together. I wanted to add the inserts to the window openings and that requires cutting out the shuttered portions of the original part. A sharp hobby knife makes this fairly easy. Placing the tip of the blade in the bottom corners and making starting cuts while turning the part this way and that makes it way easy. For the arched tops just punch the tip of the blade in a little at a time around the inside edge until you have them all pierced and then join the cuts and the parts will just fall out. If you work carefully you can make nice neat shapes.

For beginners I will include this little bit. When you cut out the parts and make extra cuts to help in detailing, one of the things that happens is you wind up with white card edges, The thicker the material you chose to print them out on, the more obvious this becomes. To eliminate these white edges will make the finished project look a lot better. There are a lot of different ways to color the parts, pencils, crayons, markers, water color paints, what ever way you chose, try to do it before you assemble the parts, it is just a lot easier to do so than after you have them put together. I prefer Sharpie and Faber Castell Pitt Pen Markers for this task as I have them on hand in a number of colors and they make quick work of all of this tedious work.

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If you look at the door edges for the small side door you can see some of those dreaded "white edges" I was talking about. While I have completed the basic structure of the roof cuplola, I wanted to make it look even better so I used an extra print out to furnish a second part and started cutting it out. Since I already have the basic structure made up and sized to its' correct size I couldn't just fold and glue another copy, the windows would be offset once you got all the way around to the other side. Instead, I cut out the individual side panels and added them to each side after edge coloring the window openings and all around the outer edges. As you can see, this makes the shuttered sections even more recessed and adds to the finished look of the part. The little door got the same edge coloring treatment and once the individual parts are glued together it makes for a more pronounced looking part that can be added in place over the original printed part on the side of the barn to make it look more detailed.

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While I realize that a lot of this is old hat to the more experienced card modelers, this is aimed more at folks who are just trying this out the first time and giving them some help in getting to a finished model that will look better than just cutting out and pasting parts together.

Remember that little second tree I was working on? I got the limbs puttied up and after a little more work I painted it up. A brown enamel paint job to start with then some shading work with darker browns and dark gray finished the coloring. Now that I have it to this point I can start to add some foliage.

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 7:36 am 
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WOW Jay! Thats impressive!

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