Build Tips and scale notes:
1) In order to get a more rounded cowling ring look to the edge: make lots of very tiny cuts with a sharp x-acto around the inside lip, paint with thinned glue and roll it under with your finger tip.
2) Dont use toothpicks on the float struts, they are too thin and the toothpicks show, instead laminate the struts unfolded onto another sheet of stock, cut out then fold and they will come out plenty stiff and thick at four layers.
3) Two scarf joined (glued end to end on an angle) round toothpicks work great for the wing struts, glue on the crease and wrap around for a semi-airfoil.
4) Most beavers today do not have the chin scoop
5) When gluing the wings to the center section place the cabin top piece in place and use as a reference for pushing the wings together, if you use the lines as drawn on the center section there will be a gap.
6) Most beavers on floats today do not have a dorsal fin instead they use finlets for the same anti-yaw effect.
7) Wrap the beacon light around a round toothpick and cut off flush when dry, then you will not have a hole in the top and you can color it red.
Glue the float struts to the fuselage first in the basic form and let them thoroughly dry, it is still fiddly to get them all joined up but less so if the are already on the plane instead of on the floats.
9) Use the wind screen as a forward reference when glueing the wings down otherwise it may not fit well (see above pics
9) Folded pieces of stock look better for stairs than toothpicks.
10)Most beavers on floats only have one paddle, located port side just aft of the third strut.
And on that note since this is an Alaskan plane there is a slight error in the comments about the paddle being used to beat off the bass...there are no
bass in Alaska so we prefer to use it to beat off the BEARS
11) Little drops of 5 minute epoxy applied to the underside of the flut strut joints with a bamboo skewer, after they are tacked on with your favorite white glue really stiffens up the whole lot.
12) If you want a cleaner joint between the cowling ring and the cowling itself, try cutting off the tabs and instead creating your own by gluing 1/8 x 1/16th pieces of stock to the lip of the cowling leaving 1/16th sticking out for new tabs (spave them about 1/4 inch apart), then when you apply the cowling ring it will mount flush and smooth and not stand proud of the cowling. The same can be done for all of the fuselage tabs but it is more challenging for the beginning builder.
Thats all I can think of right now.. hope this helps someone,