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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:22 pm 
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FG Origami Master
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Location: Red Bluff, CA
Thanks guys, it was a fun build. I haven't decided what is next, but if it is a big bomber, I'm gonna make it smaller. I have been kinda looking over the Me 321 ;)

Beard

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:27 pm 
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Even when that one is small, it BIG!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:49 pm 
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I have a two year old grandson that like planes ;)

Beard

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:27 pm 
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That's one nice bomber. How big is it once it is finished? After a long break from modeling, I am now getting back into it, and that plane makes me all the more determined to attempt to build it. Good job!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:50 pm 
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The wingspan is about 26" give or take. I can't measure it cause it is in my grandson's room ;)

Beard

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 1:52 pm 
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That is one sweet build. You did an amazing job on it. Most of my airplane models have been WWII fighters in 1/72 scale, so I haven't dealt with really large wingspans like this. Is there a secret? No evidence of twisting or warping in your model. Great job!

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Don

Currently working on: 1/48 Fokker DVII
Recently completed: 1/72 Douglas Skystreak


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:34 am 
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I get better results if I build the wing as one piece. This one comes in six pieces (the inner section is two pieces, build that to be a single piece first), that go over a middle spar that is quite stout and sets the dihedral. You build the wing and slip it over the spar and it joins the fuselage over a premade former which all works well. I had to reinforce both the top and bottom of the wing by laminating a piece of card stock over the place where the inner and outer sections join to keep the surface from folding at the joint. It wasn't to difficult on the bottom, but since that was still "flat". However when you join up the top of the two sections it has a tendency to want to collapse at the joint so you have to laminate the card stock there also after you get it together.

I usually (and did in this case) put joining strips on the bottom wing laminate piece that will fold up just short of the wing tip to keep the ends from mushing down flat when sealing up the wings. The trick is not to rush any of this and make sure the glue is well set before sealing up the wing tips. An added plus on this model is the wing farings fit perfectly and I didn't have to use all those words I learned in the Army.

Beard

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 7:18 am 
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Quote:
An added plus on this model is the wing farings fit perfectly and I didn't have to use all those words I learned in the Army.


Hahahahahahahahah! Thanks for sharing your technique, Beard. Great tips.

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Don

Currently working on: 1/48 Fokker DVII
Recently completed: 1/72 Douglas Skystreak


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:12 pm 
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Here's another one for youse guys. A favorite of mine since I saw a group of them flying over Morro Bay twenty seven or so years ago. The Ryan PT 22.

This kit went together really well, even the faring fit nicely (starting to forget those magic words). The only thing that wasn't right, which was probably my fault is the dyhedral, somehow I dint get one.

The special little things I did to enhance this kit were; I made bumps for the rigging wires (where indicated) and the wing brace, put an insert in the cockpit (zinc chromate with a wood floor), used transparency film for glazing, redrew the prop (eliminating black lines), rebuilt the landing gear with paper tubes (the back piece is wire that is half covered to look like a shock, and wire in the front brace), used the cylinders from the A12 Shrike (cut to fit) with self made exhaust pipes. I think that is it.

Image

Image

Image

Beard

Oh forgot to mention this is only 95% size, I forgot to reset my PDF reader after making a toy for my wife.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:17 am 
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Very nice, great work.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 8:09 am 
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That's a great plane! I really like your reworked landing gear. I struggle with rolling small tubes, so it's nice to see when other can.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:15 am 
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Thanks guys, it was a fun project.

Willy, what if find that works for small tubes is to progressively roll it around small diameter stock. Since these are pretty small, diameter and length wise, I took a piece of card stock (65#) that would finish at the roughly the circumference I was looking for and just carefully placed a yarn needle in the middle (length wise) and forced the card stock to bend around it. Keeping it centered on the stock, I kept rubbing it up until it was pretty much joined in a butt joint. Then I took the wire I was using for the gear (straightened paper clip) and again rolled it around that, took a small amount of glue along the edge and forced the edges together, then wallah tube! Takes a little practice, but it is pretty easy. I even did the angle cuts after the tube was made. I flattened the end, cut the angle the pushed the point of the yarn needle down the flat end to return it to the tube shape. Pretty slick, huh?

Beard

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:45 pm 
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I do pretty much the same thing, I just think tend to rush and get the tube twisted, or I use too heavy of paper. Oh well, at least we know YOU can do great tubes :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 11:35 am 
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Beard, what do you use for the guide lines or wires for your model. I have a GeeBee I'm thinking of do my first support wires for. Looking for ideas. The kind I can do.. Thank you BTW, that is a fantastic looking model. Did you retouch any of the colors of the model and if so what do you use? Thank you. me wc


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 12:27 pm 
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Waddy,

For rigging wires I used straightened thin floral wire. It is difficult to straighten, but if it is short like these it isn't to bad. Take a straight pin (I use hat pins with the ball on the end) and poke holes where the end of the wire goes. Make your wire a little longer than the distance between the holes and push it into the holes at either end. Then use a drop of glue to secure the wire.

I usually color the edges with a colored pencil. Sometime I use a Bic Mark it permanent marker. Be careful if using a marker because it may bleed into the card. I mark the edge holding face away from me so I don't have embarrassing lines on the face ;)

Beard

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